“We’ve never done this before”, exclaimed Hannah Gibbons, general manger of the Fish On the Green restaurant in Bearsted, Kent. Well, judging by the smart green aprons of the staff and the delightful welcome glass of sparkling Gusbourne, the event had been meticulously rehearsed and was about to begin.  Ahead of us, a multiple course tasting menu to celebrate New Year’s Eve. And an early start at 6pm so we could be home to watch the fireworks from London and elsewhere. There is a wonderful sense of expectation as we await the culinary overture – smoked Applewood beignet, petit ratatouille, Parmesan crisp and basil oil. The restaurant is close to capacity as a parade of plates emerges from the kitchen.

A tasting menu really does take out the jeopardy of menu selection and that primeval desire to have what your neighbour is having. Small parcels and exquisite tastes. Our culinary journey has begun. This is followed by Seared Scottish scallops, squid ink linguine, crispy Maldon oyster with Gusbourne butter sauce. My wife is in seventh heaven. The scallops melt and infuse the mouth. We consume in comfortable silence making appreciative noises. Language unnecessary. We sip and savour.

Can that be topped? Well, no question when lobster thermidor is unleashed. Would it be wrong to pick up the lobster shell and slurp? Yes, it would but the temptation remains. More bottles are being ordered and the chatter is louder, animated, engaging.

Tasting senses in overdrive, we are pacified by Gusbourne sorbet, poached strawberries and sumptuous lime meringue. I make a mental note to try poaching strawberries sometime. We are being set up for a blunderbuss finale and out comes dishes of dark chocolate delice, hazelnut brittle, salted caramel ice cream with chocolate tuile. It’s rich and enveloping. All noises cease as we feed. A bit too rich for Mrs. Dove but I am in a chocolate-induced trance. And there is still to come coffee and homemade truffles. I reflect on the planning, the industry, the skills, the organisation to carry off an evening like this. I pass the kitchen door, the chefs are smiling, they have every right to. Time for you to sample some Fish On the Green piscatorial magic. 

Fish On The Green, seafood restaurant in Bearsted

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